One of the easiest multipitches above the sea

Are you planning a climbing trip to Sardinia and looking for an easy multipitch route? Maybe it’s your first experience climbing a multipitch outdoors, or it’s the first time you climb above the sea. In this case Signorina Fantasia in Pedralonga is the perfect route!

Signorina Fantasia

Signorina Fantasia is the name of a 4 pitch climb in Pedralonga, Sardinia. It is fully bolted, with excellent anchors and an incredible surrounding. Pedralonga is located in the area of Baunei, along the eastern coast of the island. This area is one of the most amazing bits of land if you are a climber, as there are cliffs everywhere you look.

Signorina Fantasia was bolted by Maurizio Oviglia in 2017and is becoming very famous. The rock quality is impressive, sometimes very sharp. Due to the high number of people who attempt this climb you might find a few parts a bit polished, but it is absolutely worth it.

The route is 4 pitches long. The crux is a 5c traverse move on the second pitch, but apart from that the line is very easy. It is graded as follows: 5a, 5c, 5b, 4c.

The first pitch feels a bit harder than 5a, but if you are confident climbing 5c then you should have no problem on this route. Remember this is a multipitch route! So it is important not to underestimate the difficulty. It’s not just the grade: it’s also the rock, the sea below, the exposure, and the experience on this type of climb that counts. If you are not accustomed to climbing outdoors you should not focus only on the technical grade as this might be misleading. We are saying this just in case you are new to multipitch climbing.

If you’re interested, here you can read a short story we wrote about this climb (in italian). We climbed Signorina Fantasia on a cold and windy day in winter. There was no one around and we had a lot of fun. Following this link you will also be able to see other pictures from that day. https://actionmagazine.it/signorina-fantasia-sulla-falesia-di-pedra-longa-in-sardegna/

Overview

Here is a sketch of the route with a short description of the pitches. You can also download a pdf of this sketch from our page “Routes”.

L1: Climb vertically following the bolts, the anchor is slightly around the corner on the left.

L2: Hardest pitch of the route. Start vertically and then slightly to the right. Then traverse to the left following the bolts and after a few meters climb up straight to the next anchor.

L3: Climb up and around a tree and then on easier ground reach the anchor (a big chain).

L4: The final meters are very easy, just climb up until the final anchor. 

DESCENT

The descent is on foot. You can descend all the way without rappelling if you want, but you will have to downclimb some bits (up to grade III difficulty). If you don’t want to downclimb you will find two anchors along the path for rappelling.

As you reach the final anchor you will find yourself on a big ledge overlooking the steps and the restaurant. From here you keep close to the walls and walk through the bushes, going slightly upwards until you go round a corner. From here you keep close to the wall and reach the first anchor. If you prefer to downclimb you keep going down keeping slightly to the right (facing the restaurant) until you reach a wide ledge. Here is a tree with slings for another repel, or again you can proceed downclimbing.

Once you reach the bottom of the wall you follow a path through rocks and bushes and go down all the way towards the steps. Do not attempt to cross to your left, you will end up on top of the single pitch routes.

Looking for something harder?

Did you enjoy climbing Signorina Fantasia? Do you want to climb another route on Pedralonga? Are you feeling confident about your climbing capabilities?

There’s another amazing line that you can climb on Pedralonga. It’s called Marinaio di Foresta and the max grade is 6a+. So a bit harder than Signorina Fantasia, but the climbing is amazing.

Read our article on Marinaio di Foresta here:

https://6bpump.com/pedralonga-spectacular-line-right-above-the-waves-marinaio-di-foresta/