Climb a spectacular line in Pedralonga, right above the waves!

Climbing Marinaio di Foresta in Pedralonga, Sardegna

Are you looking for a fantastic multiptich climb in Pedralonga?

If you are looking for a cool multipitch climb above the sea this might be the perfect route for you. Its name is Marinaio di Foresta and it was set by the famous climber Maurizio Oviglia. The line starts from the rocks just a few meters from the sea and takes you almost to the top of Pedralonga.

Rock quality is unbelievable, despite being so close to the water, and is sometimes really sharp (especially on the final pitches). Pedralonga is located in the area of Baunei, on the east coast of Sardinia.

Here is the line. 7 pitches long with a maximum grade of 6a+. So before you start this climb make sure you are accustomed to climbing this grade and to exposed climbs above the sea!

How to reach Pedralonga

Once you reach Pedralonga park your car in the restaurant car park, or in one of the spaces available along the road. Follow the steps down to the rocks, starting next to the restaurant entrance. Once you reach the rocks turn right (facing the sea) and walk along the rocks. Continue to the edge of Pedralonga (you will pass by some bolted single pitch lines).

The start of the route is above a big old rusty ring that was used for boats. The name Marinaio di Foresta is written in black below the first bolt.

How to descend

There are various options for the descent. The quickest way is probably to walk the whole way down, but this means downclimbing a few meters in various points (not hard, maybe grade III). If you decide to walk follow the path to the right (with your back to the sea). You will soon reach a point where you need to downclimb 5-6 meters to reach the exit of the route Signorina Fantasia. From here keep following the path which traverses to the back of Pedralonga. This takes you to the side from where you can see the restaurant. Keep going down in between bushes to the bottom of the steps (don’t keep too far to the left, otherwise you will end up above the crag opposite the restaurant).

The other option for the descent is to rappel down. There are two anchor points. One is a few meters down from the exit of the route, slightly to the left. From here it would be best to descend with two 60 meter ropes. Otherwise you can do a shorter rappel and stop at the lower ledge were you can find another anchor and a tree with slings attached to it for the rappel.

Useful information

The route is in the sun in the morning. If you want to avoid direct sunshine climb in the afternoon.

The line is fully bolted and the anchors are great. Sometimes the anchor consists of two bolts that you have to link.

You can also climb Marinaio di Foresta with a single 60 meter rope.

For information and topos on the routes (including single pitches) visit: https://www.turismobaunei.eu/services/falesia-arrampicata-pedra-longa-baunei-sardegna

If you are looking for an easier route to start with check this article:

https://6bpump.com/signorina-fantasia-climbing-above-the-sea-in-sardinia/