Thrilling multipitch line in Finale Ligure! Climb just above the waves in Italy

Traverse multipitch on the cliffs of Capo Noli

As you probably know, Finale Ligure is a dream destination for climbing enthusiasts. If you want to know why check out our article: https://6bpump.com/finale-ligure-rock-climbing-trip-in-italy/

The crags and the rock quality are excellent, the food is delicious, and there is a great variety of climbing styles and grades. What we did not mention in our article is the possibility of climbing multipitch routes. In this article we would like to tell you about a line we climbed at the end of December 2023. A great way to end our adventurous year!

We were very lucky to have good weather. Even though the sun was not always shining, the temperatures were mild and the sea was fairly calm (considered the time of year). Make sure you check the weather forecast before climbing this route.

In Scio Bolesomme: multipitch traverse

The route we climbed is a traverse of around 400 meters. It crosses the cliffs in Capo Noli at a height that varies from just a couple meters to 15 meters above the sea. Maximum grade is 6a (just a couple of hard moves on the first pitches). The rest of the climb is fairly easy. Do not climb if you don’t like traverses! That’s what the whole route is about! : ) Finally, it’s a bolted route, with all the anchors in place.

It is great fun even though the climbing itself is easy. Furthermore, it’s a great option if you want to try something different! The setting is really special, as you are climbing literally just above the sea!

This line can also be linked with other traverses along the cliffs. Some of the routes are harder but some of them are also easier. If you want to try some single pith climbing before attempting the traverse there are many routes close by. Some start exactly where this multipitch starts. We climbed two single pitches here to warm up. You rappel from the road and then climb back up to the anchors.

How to reach it

Traveling to Finale Ligure from Genova you will drive through two tunnels. The first one is called “Capo Noli”, the second one is called “Malopasso”. You can park the car on the side of the road in between the galleries (only a few spaces) or after the “Malopasso” gallery. Roughly half way between the tunnels there is a small space on the side of the road that faces the sea, with a wooden sign. Here, on the top of a rocky pillar, you will find some anchors. From these anchors you can rappel down to a flat rocky ledge (as you rappel down keep to the right of the pillar). Here you can start the traverse (or climb a few single pitches, if you want).

Once you completed the climb (11 pitches), you reach the top of the road again, and from here you can easily walk back to the car.

Here is a description of the route: https://www.vielunghefinale.com/capo-noli-in-scio-bolesomme/

A few extra things to consider:

You can climb this line in winter, as on sunny days the rock is warm in the sunshine. You should always check the weather forecast and also wave forecast. If there are strong winds or tides and the waves are big you might risk getting your gear wet, or even worse, get hit by the waves. In some points you are really close to the sea so this can easily happen in bad conditions.

Another thing to consider is the rock. Rock quality is good but being above the sea the rock is often humid and salty. Chalk can help but on very humid days the holds can be a bit slippery. The route is not hard but make sure you are confident climbing 6a before attempting.

On a traverse line leading or going second on the climb does not make much difference. Bolts are not too far apart but both climbers should be confident because even who goes second has a chance of falling in between bolts.

Make sure you have all the gear you need for a multipitch climb. You could use a long single rope for this route.

Parking in the area can be hard as there is not much space between the sea and the hills and the road is narrow. Make sure you are parked outside the white lines if you want to avoid fines. You can also park in the parking lots along the road for a fee and then walk along the road. All this area gets very busy in spring and summer, but especially in July and August. Make sure you park in designated areas and parking spaces all year round.

For the best crags by the sea in Finale read our post! https://6bpump.com/best-climbing-routes-by-the-sea-in-finale-ligure/