Best climbing routes by the sea in Finale Ligure

Did you know you can climb above the waves in Liguria on incredible limestone cliffs? Read more to learn where to find the best routes in Finale for climbing by the sea.

You can even climb some multipitch lines on these cliffs: read our article if you want to know more at this link https://6bpump.com/finale-ligure-multipitch-thrilling-traverse-above-the-sea/. You can even link a few multipitch routes together to climb more than 500 meters in total. These routes are very peculiar as they do not develop vertically. The cliffs are not so high, in some points they are about 30 meters. So the whole route consists of a traverse above the sea, sometimes only a few meters from the waves.

Finale Ligure is a beautiful coastal town in Liguria in Italy. It is well known for its great climbing but it’s a famous destination for many types of sports, including surfing and mountain biking. It is also very popular as a summer destination for vacations. We highly recommend avoiding July and August as the city is packed and you will even struggle to find a parking space. It’s a great place to enjoy sports, nature and excellent food.

Climbing above the sea is definitely an experience every passionate climber should try at least once. Finale Ligure is a great place to try, if you are on a climbing trip in Italy. The other great advantage of climbing by the sea is tat you can do it in almost every season. Summer months are very hot and crowded so it’s best to avoid August. But even when it’s hot you can find some places on the beach where you have dive and swim in between routes. Winter can be a but cold and windy but if the weather forecast is nice you might be able to climb with just a jumper even in December! We spent three amazing days of climbing in Finale Ligure just before New Year’s Eve 2023.

Here is a list of some great crags and spots you can try if you want to try! You can also check this website for other information and topos https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/italy/finale-ligure/capo-noli

Capo Noli

5 minutes from Finale the area of Capo Noli offers many climbing routes above the sea. Coming from Genova you will reach Capo Noli and encounter a few road galleries. All climbing routes start from the cliffs on the side of the road. There are different sectors, here is a brief summary. For all the routes check https://www.finaleoutdoor.com/it/trails-walls/capo-noli-dancing-dalle

• Easy Dalle: easiest crag, with routes for absolute beginners
• Nolitudine: spectacular crag with a variety of grades and some longer lines. To reach these you have to follow a traverse with fixed ropes
• Primo e secondo pilastro: fantastic routes, exposed and sometimes long, watch out when rappelling as the ropes go straight in the sea.
• Dancing Dalle: one of the most famous and historic crags of the area. The first 7a of finale was bolted here.
• La spiaggia: bonus crag! You can climb from the beach and try trad climbing! Easy routes for beginners who are interested in trying nuts and cams, you can climb on the blocks behind the beach. This wall was built as support for the road that passes above the cliff.

If you are in Liguria and you are travelling and would like to find another climbing area close to the waves check out Portovenere. This city is a Jewel of the coast and is a very popular tourist destination. There are some amazing crags close by and the main area is called Muzzerone. You can find both single pitch and multipitch routes. The main area is above the sea but not directly above it so you can’t reach the water from here. There were some routes below the famous fort on the side of the town but the bolts are now very rusty and old. We recommend you search for updated information and also check permits for climbing here. When we visited the area we opted for some deep water soloing on the lower rocks in front of the harbour. You can find some really interesting lines and the water is very nice.

From the end of the city you can dive in the water and swim to the beautiful cliff on the opposite side. The rock is amazing and there are good holds. If you climb in the cave the lines get harder as you reach the overhang but you can still dive off the cliffs safely after the first few meters of climbing.

How to reach portovenere

Portovenere, a charming coastal village in Liguria, is easily accessible, though it requires a bit of planning. If you’re arriving by car, take the A12 motorway and exit at La Spezia. From there, follow the signs to Portovenere (about 30 minutes by scenic road). Be aware that the town center is mostly a ZTL (limited traffic zone), so you’ll need to park outside. The main parking areas are Parcheggio Golfo and Parcheggio Portovenere, both paid lots located a short walk from the town. During high season, spots fill quickly, so early arrival is recommended.

If you’re traveling by train, take a regional or high-speed train to La Spezia Centrale. From there, you can catch a local bus (Line 11P) or a taxi directly to Portovenere, which takes around 25–30 minutes.

For those flying in, the closest airports are Pisa International Airport (PSA) and Genoa Cristoforo Colombo Airport (GOA). From either airport, take a train to La Spezia and follow the same bus or taxi route.

Regardless of how you travel, the journey is well worth it—Portovenere offers stunning sea views, colorful houses, and historic charm that make it unforgettable.