Can you climb in Capo Caccia? The short answer is yes — and it’s absolutely worth it. This stunning limestone headland on the northwest coast of Sardinia offers some of the island’s most scenic and adventurous multipitch routes, with walls plunging dramatically into the turquoise sea below. The area boasts many beautiful lines of varying grades, and for climbers who enjoy combining sport and trad techniques, it’s a real playground.
However, it’s important to note that the crag has not been rebolted for several years, due to ongoing disagreements with the local municipality. As a result, while there are plenty of easy multipitch routes available, many of them rely on old bolts and anchors that may no longer be reliable. Climbers should therefore be prepared to place their own protection and use sound judgment when assessing fixed gear.
In this article, you’ll find a detailed route description and practical information to help you plan your climb safely. But keep in mind — climbing at Capo Caccia requires a blend of experience, caution, and respect for the conditions. The setting is breathtaking, but the routes demand a thoughtful and self-reliant approach.
Multipitch Sindrione
100 meters
5c max
Pitches: 5b, 5a, 5a, 5b
You can make the route easier or moving to the left and write of the bolted line.
The route starts on a big ledge 20 meters above the sea. To descend you have to rappel and you can reach the bottom with two rappels using double 60 meter ropes. If you have a single rope you will need three rappels and in both cases be careful when pulling down ropes as they can get stuck or cause rockfall.
How to reach the climbing line
Park the car at the viewpoint along the road. From here walk on the side of the cliffs for 10/15 minutes toward the outer corner of the cliff. Follow the path through the bushes until you reach a series of anchors along the slabs. Continue until you almost reach the end of the slabs and here you will find two anchors where you can start abseiling.
More info here: https://www.gulliver.it/itinerari/capo-caccia-placche-nord-sindrione/
Another climbing line Powaqqatsi
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