Rock climbing the Dillosauro
Dillosauro is the name of an iconic tower of granite located on the island of Sardegna. The tower is very small and thin but it’s shape and the surrounding area are so amazing that it has become one of the most photographed climbing locations in Italy.
It has been recently rebolted by Maurizio Oviglia, so bolts and anchors are in excellent conditions.
If you want to know more about this rock, read this article!
Where is Dillosauro located?
This granite tower is hidden in one of Sardinia’s remotest coastal areas. It is in the municipality of Triei, on the south-eastern coast of the island. The only way to reach Dillosauro is to park the car where the tarmac ends and walk for approximately 1h15mins along a dirt track. This definitely adds to the marvel of this place.
Walking along the path you will suddenly see this finger of rock, detached from the side of the wall. From sea level you have to walk along an uphill path that leads you to the bottom of Dillosauro. This place is also a crag, called Jurassic Park. There are a few trad routes on the walls next to Dillosauro.
Finding the path that leads up to it can be hard. Follow the dirt road until you can see the Dillosauro high up on the right. Do not go straight towards it, the path starts further ahead, and then takes you back up. Just before the path starts you will reach some granite rocks with a few bolts and some stone walls. From here walk a few meters ahead and try looking for stone piles on the right side. These will show you the start of the path that goes into the woods and then up towards the crag.
What is the route like?
The climb is very short. In fact, it is only two pitches long . It is fully bolted, with solid anchors. The first pitch is a dihedral with a crack that gets wider as you climb. This pitch is graded around 6c. The second pitch is incredible. As you climb around the tower you go on three of its sides before reaching the top. As this section is super exposed it is graded 6a+/6b. Also, it is a bit physical and psychological. Nonetheless, technically speaking it’s quite easy. Finally, these two pitches take you to the top of the tower, where two people can sit or stand comfortably.
You will find an anchor on top of the tower, linked to a chain and a ring for the descent. If you throw your ropes to the side where you started it will be easier to reach the ground. Avoid rappelling on the other side because the ground is lower there.
Extra information
Jurassic Park is a east-facing crag. This means that the climbing route will be in the shade in the afternoon. If you climb with two 60meter ropes you can descend with just one rappel. Otherwise you have to stop at the anchor of the first pitch.
We wrote an article (in Italian) about this climb, which was published on a magazine! You can find it here: https://www.4actionsport.it/arrampicare-in-sardegna-il-dillosauro/.
Check out the link for more pictures of this amazing place.
Are you planning a climbing trip to Sardinia? Are you looking for other amazing climbing routes? Check out this one: https://6bpump.com/pedralonga-spectacular-line-right-above-the-waves-marinaio-di-foresta/
Italian 
English